Preparing for an Australian winter

When you've lived over 35 years in 2 of the coldest cities on the planet the idea of feeling cold in Perth seems mad.  Outdoors is never an issue...it never goes below zero celsius and most days will still reach a high in the teens.  That said, after 2 winters here and approaching a third I have never felt so cold inside a house as I have in Perth.

The majority of houses here are built with an extremely simple form of insulation: air.  Houses have two layers of brick with an air gap in between.  Unless the house was build in the last 5 or so years it will have no insulation in the attic.  Regardless of build date it will have single pane / glazed windows.  This makes for a structure that gets cold fast and stays cold without significant heat input.

Heat can be provided in a number of ways:  

1) Centrally via either natural gas (I've never actually seen a house with this but I'm told it exists) or reverse cycle air conditioning (electricity).  Vents tend only to be in major areas.  You don't see them in bathrooms, closets or laundry rooms typically.  Ducted reverse cycle is the most comfortable year round solution in Australia.

2) Split unit reverse cycle air conditioners (electrically run) which will only heat or cool in the room their in.  If sized properly these work well and make for one of the most energy efficient solutions as the idea is you only turn them on when needed.
 

3) A gas point is provided in multiple places in the house for you to connect a gas heater which can be purchased for 900 to 1200 dollars each new.  A note of caution, these units are self contained and have no mechanism to exhaust gases such as carbon monoxide.  Houses are never equipped with carbon monoxide sensors.  I'm told that state governments have run campaigns in the past to try to get people to get rid of their old dangerous gas heaters in exchange for newer safer ones.   It is suggested when running these units that you have windows or doors open a bit to ensure ventilation.  One could suggest that the less than modern aussie construction techniques leave houses so loose in terms of air movement that this isn't a real problem.

4) A wood burning stove (Jarrah hard wood seems to be the fuel of choice and number of companies offer bulk home delivery starting around $150 per 1/2 tonne).  The heat is uber nice but of course you have very little control and they are not exactly low maintenance.

5) Bathrooms often have heat lamps which feel nice and would keep a roast turkey warm in a pinch.

I should mention that thermostats are also very rudimentary when compared to North America.  Those used to smart thermostats that set the temperature based on when you're home or awake might be disappointed. By contrast, split units allow you to set the temperature of the air coming out, and have timers.  Central ducted units allow you to set the room temperature and have timers.  Many systems are purely on or off.

So that all said, this year we've got a combination of available heat.  One split unit in the master bedroom.  A wood stove in the living room.  A gas point in the same room, and a gas point in the main kitchen / living area.  Kids rooms have...well...blankets.

I've ordered 500 kg of jarrah which showed up next day.  A lot of it is little tiny pieces so I'm not sure how long it'll last but it's dry and it definitely burns.  The reverse cycle in the master works really well.  I'm thinking we may add a gas heater to the house as a last resort if we get to a point that we can't get the majority of the house above 17 C. 

   

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The australian public school vs private school dillema

I can't name a private school in Edmonton.  If we still lived there today Olivia would be in a public school and it's very likely that we would rave about it as we did the program she was in run by the Edmonton Catholic School board before we left.

Schooling in Australia is very different.  You have 4 (that I know of there might be more) types of schools.  Private, Catholic Private, Independant Public and Public schools.  Mention to the right person an intention of sending your kids to public school and you will get a gasp akin to the announcement that you have decided to have your children raised by wolves.

So my question became:  Is this reaction valid?  Are the public schools that bad?  Is it really necessary to spend 14 - 25K per child per year for private school?

Our first decision was made easier by the fact that the company that brought us to Perth would pay the cost of Private School.  Why take the risk?  We had a suspect discussion at a public school where we were living and were able to find a spot at the closest private school: Wesley College.  Wesley is an old boys school that have begun introducing girls.  A family one time initiation fee of around 6K plus 13K in annual dues would get Olivia into the kindy program (4-5 years of age). 

A mural displayed at Wesley College in South Perth

This year things are different.  We do not have the warm cotton blanket expat package to fall back on. Olivia would cost 14-15K and Owen would start pre-kindy at 7-9K.  Take into account the Australian taxes and I have to earn nearly 40K just for their private schooling and this number would rise quickly as they grow up.

And so after much debate (Angie is a teacher by profession), research, reading, discussion with other parents we decided to try public schools.  Two months ago Olivia started at a Independant public school in the area we're living in.

I plan to continue to update my observations on this little experiment but here are my initial observations:

Facilities:  The facilities at Wesley and many of the expensive private schools are over the top impressive.  They are in pristine condition, contantly being added to, well landscaped and remind me of small universities or Harry Potter's Hogwarts rather than children's schools.  The public school we have Olivia at has seen better days in terms of condition.  Maybe much better days.  That's not to say that it is a dump, it just has a need for maintenance in certain areas and is not nearly as grand.  

Private schools are marketing machines catering to parents emotions:  Every piece of literature, every communication at Wesley was "prettied up", had gone through a marketing agency, was printed on thick paper stock and drove the message that you were in an elite, storied place that created elite leaders of tomorrow.  You feel special there.  You get to say "My kids go to Wesley"  You rub elbows with other elite parents (doctors, lawyers, bank executives etc).  They send countless e-mails, massive newsletters printed like high end annual reports from forture 500 companies reinforcing the greatness that is the Wesley experience.

Private schools are never done asking for money:  You've paid nearly 20K for tuition, so you're done right?  Yeah, right!  Fund raising events at 50-100 bucks a head, emails asking for donations to keep the storied history alive, 400 / term for violin lessons, mandated uniforms double the price of public school uniforms the same quality.  It never stops.

Public schools are for students:  You will not get big fancy propoganda books.  I haven't been invited for a champagne charity event overlooking the city.  We have however already had an assessment of Olivia's reading skills and the areas the teacher will be focused on.  Want to send the teacher an e-mail.  You can but she only reads them once per week.  She'll be happy to talk to you when you come in though.  So far I see a focus on the accademics that I didn't see at Wesley.  (Keep in mind Olivia is very young.)

The base curriculum is the same:  I think this often gets lost.  Private schools like public schools are bound by Australian laws as to what they must teach.  They can add, but they can't subtract.  Private schools and independant schools appear to have some flexibility in how they present certain materials vs the pure public schools.  For example the pure public schools are still teaching the font, Victorian modern cursive which I'm not sure I had even seen before.  I'm sure as we get on there will be elements of the Aussie curriculum that will drive us crazy but nothing that we can't top up at home.

Teachers appear more strict at the public schools:  This is an observation shared by other friends of mine in discussion.  The private school would have us believe their more carefree approach is their method of driving leadership characteristics.  Time will tell....I think Olivia can use a little more authority as seen in her new school.

Either way, good teachers matter:  I liked Olivia's teacher at Wesley.  She was relatively new to teaching but had a gentle way about her and I think Olivia learned some life skills from her.  Her new public school teacher is clearly experienced and very strong.  Watching her assess students is quite impressive.  She is a no nosense, get the job done kind of person that I think we will reflect on fondly in years to come.    

We're two months in and only comparing one young student across two schools.  I'm going to continue to share my observations on this as we're talking about the two most prized things in Angie and my life: Olivia and Owen.    

My friend Alan said something that has stuck with me:  "No matter what school you put your child in, one thing remains true.  The bright ones always rise to the top."

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Learning Aussie Rules football

One of the true surprises of the journey abroad has been how much I've enjoyed Australian Rules Football or Footy as it's affectionately known.  Footy is like a religion here and as soon as you can talk the game, striking a conversation with men (and often women) gets a whole lot easier.

NAB Bank was playing the below commercials this year which I love.  In very simple terms, it explains the game.  I think it's pretty cute.

Scoring:
There are 4 posts.  Kick it through the middle two posts:  A goal - 6 Points.  Kick it between the outside posts: A behind: 1 Point  Hit one of the two middle posts:  A behind - 1 Point.  Hit an outside post - No points  Ok now you know how to score....got that?

Marks:
Then you've got the mark.  Kick the ball at least 10 meters and if a player catches it he is awarded a mark.  A mark is basically a free kick that the opposing team cannot go beyond where the mark was taken.

There are lots of other rules...but if you can get the scoring and the mark, then you can watch and enjoy quite easily.

When moving to Perth, there will be charlatans who will try to convince you to cheer for the West Coast Eagles.  Don't fall for this nonsense.  When in Perth, cheer for the Fremantle Dockers and all will be well with the world.  (No bias to see here folks - move along)

Joking aside, we have two teams in WA, West Coast and Fremantle.  The rivalry is not as strong as hockey's Calgary Flames and Edmonton Oilers that I grew up with, but it does show up.  West Coast has won grand finals and has overshadowed Fremantle for a long time.  That is, until this year.  This year Fremantle was a dominating team and went to the Grand Final only to beaten by the very strong Hawthorn Hawks.

Showing Dockers pride during the finals

Angie and I got to go to a game in a company box which was a truly awesome experience.  The field is massive, different at each stadium, and holds a huge number of people.  The Subiaco Oval, where Fremantle and West Coast play, holds 43,500.  The MCG (Melbourne Cricket Grounds) where the Grand Final is played each year holds 100,018 (yes, 100,018)

Our first game at the Subiaco Oval - Fremantle Won!

Every regular season game (1 per week as a general rule, played Friday, Saturday or Sunday) for both Fremantle and West Coast is on Freeview television. (it's normally got a minor time delay, which you can avoid by lining Rupert Murdoch's pockets with money and getting Foxtel)  I've added a few good videos below for your viewing pleasure.

I've you've made the journey to Australia, or are intending to and enjoy sports, I highly suggest giving the game a shot.

Best goals and marks of the year

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Coffee Culture in Australia

I love my coffee.  See my ever evolving latte art above.  Regardless of the region and the way the local culture drinks their coffee, I get engaged and enjoy it.  One of my favourite experiences is breakfast while staying in Italian hotels.  Not because of what I traditionally think of breakfast, but because of the cappuccino and espresso that is served with near perfect consistency, and all included in the ridiculously low room rate.  Even outside the hotels that perfect coffee is just 1 euro.

Cappuccino and Brioche on one of my trips to Milan

Fast forward to Perth, and we are fully enveloped by a coffee culture with it's own lingo that will certainly trip up those new to it.

Epic Espresso in West Perth - My personal favourite cafe

Perth, like Italy is an espresso based coffee culture.  Drip coffee is nearly unheard of though you are starting to see some shops serve a "pour over" like it is some sort of special alchemy to be tried by true coffee aficionados.  Coffee here is also often very milk based.

If you order a coffee in North America you will receive a drip coffee and usually the standard "Do you take cream or sugar?".

In Italy the simple "un cafe per favor" will garner you one shot of espresso.

In Australia...."coffee please" will likely get you a blank stare followed by "so....Flat White?"

Ok lets go through the options and what they mean:

Short Black = 1 shot of espresso.  You certainly can ask for a double short black as well.  It should be served in a small ceramic cup and drank immediately.

Long Black = An americano.  Take a shot of espresso and add boiling water.  Generally 1/3 coffee to 2/3 water.

Flat White = It's supposed to be a stronger version of a latte where the milk is not as frothed.  In my experience it is just a latte with less foam but some may disagree.

Latte = Latte  I think we're ok here.  The only difference in Australia is it's often served in a clear picardie glass.

Cappuccino = No real change here.  It's often served with chocolate powder on top and I find them to be much less strong than what I would get in Italy.

Short Macchiatto - If you frequent Starbucks, forget what Starbucks told the world a macchiatto was.  A proper macchiatto is a shot of espresso with small "stain" of steamed milk foam.

Long Macchiatto (usually topped up) - Bring on the marching angry barrista's.  This is consistently made differently so you are best to tell someone how you want it made if you are going to order it but generally it is 2 shots of espresso with steamed milk topped up to an 8 oz glass.  Often if served to "dine in" it comes in a clear glass.  Many barristas will argue that this is a piccolo latte.  The problem I have with this is that ordering a piccolo latte often gets me a stare, follow by "Flat white-then?".

One of my frustrations with many coffee shops is that they offer different sizes and if you go for a larger size you get more milk.  I'm told there are barristas that know better but I've yet to find them.  My solution: order a small only.  This has the benefit of keeping the Italian coffee gods happy as well.  This is of course assuming you don't order a milk based drink like a cappuccino after 11am.

I should mention to be prepared to pay for that coffee.  Perth ranks as having the most expensive cup of coffee in Australia with an average price above 4 dollars.

Love coffee....please share...How do you take it?

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The very eery, very cool, Pinnacles Desert

The Pinnacles Desert in Namburg National Park is just over 2 hours straight north along the coast on highway 60.  We had heard mixed emotions from friends anywhere from "Meh, it's alright" to "You gotta see it".

I am firmly 100% in the "You gotta see it" camp.

The drive is pretty typically driving in Western Australia with a mix of terrain.  There are signs OFTEN warning of wildlife wandering on to the road which can be an issue in general in these parts especially with kangaroos.  This is a real risk and requires you keep your wits about you.  

As you get closer you will start to notice the most amazing white sand dunes.  This Canadian started to think he was seeing snow.  It's that white.  Come to learn after the trip that a popular activity near the town of Lancelin is Sandboarding.  Sounds fun.

Other than the sand dunes there is no real geographical indication that you are close to the site.  The signs however are pretty good and we arrive at the gate.  We had been to Yanchep National Park (another post to come) the same day so our $12 dollar ticket was good for entry.  The nice attendant handed us a map and asked that we please keep our vehicle on the road / trail.  Hmmm...ok....that will make sense soon.

We follow the signs, still surprised we can drive through, come around a corner and WOW!.  I think we all said it at the same time.  The area is truly awe inspiring and goes on for as far as the eye can see.  We quickly find a place to park the car and start to walk through the pinnacles.

I think only the pictures can really show just how cool this place is.  It's like being on another planet.  The kids absolutely loved exploring the different pinnacles and running around them.

There are a lot of photographers out with many thousands of dollars of gear.  At one point one friendly guy (who I should mention had been taking pictures of himself with a horsehead) offered to take a family shot which is one of our favourites that's been taken in WA.

We finished hungry, and headed for Cervantes, just 20 minutes to the North.  Bad idea.  We were told to go to the Country Club which was the only place open.  Angie and I had to chuckle as it reminded us so much of every 1970's built community club in Western Canada which we had both spent more time in then we cared to admit.  After 1 hour of waiting for food that hadn't been started we gave up and began the trek home.

I should mention that I don't ever remember seeing stars so clearly.

I highly suggest this quick road trip if you every get the chance.  It's a special place that you'll always remember.

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Breakfast in Fremantle - Wild Poppy

We took the kids out to Fremantle for Breakfast today to Wild Poppy.  This is our second visit to Wild Poppy and its quickly becoming one of our favourite places for breaky even if it does take us about 30 minutes to make the trip out to Fremantle.

The place is an eclectic mix of colourful quilts, painted murals, velour couches and serves both breakfast and lunch 7 days a week.  You can sit in the nicely air conditioned inside or they have 4 or 5 tables outside for those who prefer.

I can only point you to one thing on the menu because it was so good the first time I ordered it again today.  Chili Fried Eggs.  As per the picture...it's 2 eggs over easy laid over top of a Indian flat bread that has been spread with a sweet and spicy tomato chutney and has the odd green chilli (jalapeño) on it.  It costs $16.  I haven't tried a coffee but they definitely have the right equipment to make it right.

Seriously good.

After eating we found the couches, read the paper and the kids made a pretty good castle out of the blocks they found.

Wild Poppy is located at 2 Wray Ave, Fremantle, WA and is open for breakfast and lunch.  Worth checking out.

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Spiders and Snakes in Perth - Part II - Spiders

Spiders are a different kind of problem in Perth.  There are a large number of species but only one, the redback spider has the actual ability to kill you.

The not so killer Redback Spider
The anti-venom for the redback was created in 1956 and no-one has died of a bite since 1955.  Generally if you're a health adult they will just make you feel quite unwell and then you'll move on with life.

The Redback Spider

The redback is the very timid.  You normally find them in humid, dark places just sitting there.  Bites tend to happen when people grab them by accident.  I do suggest a pair of gloves when taking out the little rolly garbage bins as they like to hang out under lids and places similar.

Seriously don't worry about them.  They're a non issue.

The bigger pain - Common house spiders
Common house spiders, black spiders the size of a small coin come in waves.  They start to really show up when it starts to heat up in summer.  They really only cause two issues.

I know these guys too well. 

1) They're around, and it isn't really pleasant to have spiders crawling around the house.
2) They make webs.  And if you let them, bucket loads of webs.

When we first moved into our rental house there seemed to be a lot of them.  It seemed like every time I went into our upstairs bathroom I would need to kill one of two which would come in through the bathroom vent grills.  I should mention that I don't see the same numbers that I did last year.

Many of my friends bring in people to spray for spiders around their house.  It will kill the spiders there but doesn't stop any new spiders from coming in.

I bought an expendable spider web broom and every month or so I walk around outside and take down all of the webs.  That seems to do the trick.

Don't let spiders scare you away from coming to Perth.  The issue is way over blown.  They are much more of a nuisance than anything.

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I wish you an aussie Christmas!

Merry Christmas from Perth...


This is our second Christmas away from our extended families and can always bring a few sombre moments where you begin to realize some of the things you gave up as an expat.  Last year we spent the day with our wonderful friends from Italy and Greece who landed in Perth around the same time we did.

This year we got a true Aussie Christmas.  My friend Steve and his amazing family (all born and raised in Western Australia) opened their home to us for a beautiful meal, great conversation and plenty for the kids to do.

I will honestly never get used to Christmas without snow.  It simply does not compute in my brain.  For well over 30 years I've been programmed to bundle up to go shopping for presents.  There are lights on all of the houses and everything outside is covered in Snow.  The closest thing in Perth is the picture below taken on a day that was well above 30 Celsius.

The closest thing we get to snow....foam bubbles at London Court,  Perth CBD

Last year it hit 39.6 Celsius on Christmas day.  Thankfully this year it was a much more respectable 29 which was to be perfect to be out (under cover of course).  The kids had a bouncy house complete with mini water slide.

Aussie Toboggoning

So back to the meal:
Ham
Chicken
Natural Oysters (Southern Australia)
Prawns - massive massive prawns
A selection of salads including a killer asparagus one
Enough deserts to require a prescription for Lipitor
A giant esky (cooler) of Beer and ice

The meal was awesome.

That said though I think it's just a tribute to the Australian way.  Steve's family, most of whom had never met us, opened up their home to us and treated us like we were family.  I have to say, that is my experience since being in Perth...Australians are just SO welcoming of anyone into their homes.

Thanks to Steve and his family for a wonderful time and making us forget for a short time just how far away our family is.

If you're an expat how do you spend the holidays when far from family?

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Spiders and Snakes in Perth - Part I Snakes

Upon announcing that we would move the family to Perth, and not so much Perth, but Australia the most common response was:

"Oh Australia, you know about the spiders and snakes right?  They can kill you!"

In honesty the comments and the propoganda started to affect a reaction in me.

"How would we keep the kids safe"
"Would we need to have them in blue jeans at all times"
"How would we know when they got bit?"
"How long would we have once they were bit?"

You get the idea.

The truth is something so far from what you read it isn't funny.

First snakes:
I have yet to see a snake in the wild anywhere in my travels up and down the coast of Western Australia. AND....I have yet to meet someone who has been bit by a snake.

That is not to say they are not here.  Western Australia is home to tiger snakes, brown snakes, duggites, king browns, and death adders.  All of which are venomous.

The thing about snakes is however, they don't like being around humans.  Even the slightest vibration can make them go the other direction.  In almost all cases, snake bites occur in humans when the person is trying to do something to a snake or in cases where the person scares a snake which is sleeping or under brush and leaves.  So it usually boils down to drunk bogans and lovely old ladies gardening without a quick check that get bit.

In the end snakes in Perth is simply about a little awareness and it will never be a concern.  It should certainly never prevent anyone from making the journey.

Owen likes his garden time

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